Widely considered America's favorite cookbook, Joy of Cooking was first published privately in 1931 by Irma Rombauer, the daughter of German immigrants, a homemaker in St. Louis. The year before, her husband had committed suicide and left her $6,000 in savings. The book was published by a local company that had printed labels for shoes and Listerine mouthwash. In 1936, it was published by a commercial print house and went on to nine editions, selling over 20 million copies.
Thanks to my friend Christopher, I have one of those copies. You can count on Joy of Cooking for any of the recipes we’ve come to think of as classics here in America. It also has plenty of recipes you don’t often cook: Beef Wellington, Molten Chocolate Cakes (OK, I cook these a lot), and Rabbit Stew. Irma even tells you how to skin the rabbit.
Pulling the book out this past weekend, I festively settled on Roast Leg of Lamb (page 478 in my edition). If you have this classic cook book, you’re most likely familiar with this recipe, but if not, here you go. In Southern Utah, we’re getting some typical light Spring snow on the daffodils. A small American-raised organic bone-in leg purchased in winter provided just the sustenance I could lean into as the world struggles with the ugliness of war and bursting blossoms lining the Main Streets of nearby towns prick the heart with hope.
I make one addition to Irma’s recipe, which comes from years of cooking Julia Child’s lamb roast: add stoneground mustard to the rub. (My rule on changing up recipes is to cook the original recipe at least once or twice and then pull the tricks out of your bag.)
Recipe:
8 lb leg of lamb (I tend to buy smaller cuts. Today’s was just 4 lbs.)
Preheat the oven to 450 deg. Pat the meat dry, trim, and prepare:
2 large garlic cloves, cut into thin slices or slivers
Cut 15 to 20 evenly spaced slits in the roast and insert the garlic slivers.
Combine in a small bowl:
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons stone ground mustard (optional)
1 Tablespoon salt
1 Tablespoon minced fresh rosemary (or 1 1/2 teaspoons finely crumbled dried rosemary)
1 Teaspoon black pepper
Brush this mixture all over the leg. Arrange the meatier side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Place it in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 325 deg. Roast until the thermometer inserted in the thicker part of the leg registers 125 or 130 deg for medium rare. (Temperature will rise 5 to 10 deg out of the oven.) Remove from the oven, cover loosely with foil, and let stand for 15 to 20 min.
Many like lamb with mint sauce or chutney. This weekend, I paired it with horseradish and potatoes and garlic roasted next to the lamb. A dollop of ratatouille added color. It’s one of the last chances before summer to open a French Cahor red wine.
Delicious. Wishing you a joyful Easter, Purim, Ramadan, or just Spring!